Book binding what is a signature

Place the signature on a bench, and align it again if the edges seem out of place. With your squared card, even the upper and bottom sides as shown in figure 39 , and affirm them in their place with weights. This would prevent the sheets from slipping on top of each other. Consider your signature thickness and paper size, and evaluate suitable tapes for sticking them together. Choosing appropriate tape width is an important step because it would contribute in providing support to your binding.

For instance, if it is only a thin book on which you are working with just a limited number of signatures, you can do with tapes that are quarter of an inch wide. On the other hand, if you are binding an extremely heavy and bulky book like an encyclopedia, you would have to use half an inch wide tapes so that the binding can be provided with adequate support. Different book sizes and their appropriate tape widths have been illustrated in figure Remember that tape not only secures the sewn signatures, but also takes their weight.

As such, if you cannot determine a suitable width, just use a wider tape because that is a better option than taking a risk and letting your binding suffer unnecessarily. Suppose that three tapes are required to support your sewn signature. Use your squared card to sketch about eight marks on the back of the signatures.

Sketch two marks about half an inch away from upper and lower edges; these will be for the kettlestitches, which secure the sewing thread from one signature to another, and tie all of them in a series of knots that are similar to the structure of a chain.

Now determine evenly spaced positions for the three tapes between the two marks. Once you decide this, place two marks for each tape according to their widths across the chosen positions.

See figure 41 for details. This sums to a total of 8 marks in all. Please make sure that you place marks are slightly wider than the actual width of the tape so that they do not pucker when you tighten up the sewing as shown in figure Though you can start sewing the signatures straight away, it is better if you pierce holes prior to doing it so that you can pass the thread through the centre of the folds.

Place your piercing board in the press, and turn open the first signature on the centre page. Then pull your needle out from 1.

Always remember to use your right hand to gently drag the thread through instead of pulling it all the way with the needle. Or you might tear the paper. Cross the needle over tape two and insert it into 1. Pull it through 1. Then cross over the tape 1 and go into the page from 1. Come out from 1. Pull the thread a little harder when it goes out from the page, but be careful not to pull too hard or you might tear the page.

If you accidentally tear the page, return the thread from this hole and make a new hole ahead of the old one, then continue. Place the second signature on top of the first one and align the four edges with the first page.

The thread goes into the page from 2. This time, you need to make a knot first with the thread, between hole 1. The needle goes through the thread and leaves a small loop in the end. Then pull your needle through the loop and tighten it close to 1. Then pull your needle into the paper through 2. Once the needle goes out from 2. Cut off the excess string. The knots move to the opposite direction of the thread : if the needle moves upwards, make the knots at the bottom; if the needle moves down, make the knot upwards.

The knots help to connect all the signatures together; while alternating the direction of the knots prevents uneven force within the pages. The needle goes into the third page from 3. Then goes out through 3. Then thread the needle through 3.

When the needle goes through 3. At the end of each row, loop your thread under the thread of the previous signature, and then again through the loop that you just made. Guide your thread in from 4.

Then moves to 4. This time, the needle loops the thread under the thread of 2. You can continue these four basic steps until you have sewn all your signatures together. Sweep a finger or a brush over the glue to evenly spread it over the spine. Cut off a section of your fabric At least 4 inches wide and as long as your text block and press it to the text block.

Lay the text block cloth-side down on newspaper or your cutting board, and prop it upright. Set aside to dry. Once dry, trim the cloth at the top and bottom of the spine off, and cut off the square edges of the flaps. Shown in pictures in later steps. You'll need to cut 3 pieces for the cover; the front, back, and spine. The spine should be exactly as wide as the widest part of the spine of the text block, and about half a centimeter longer than the spine on each end.

One centimeter longer total The front and back should be the same height as the spine piece you've cut, and half a centimeter wider than the text block a half centimeter total, since it only needs to be longer on the outside edge If you're not sure about the measurements, just cut the pieces a little big, you can always trim them down later. I find it's easiest to measure and cut one cover piece and use it to trace the second.

Once they're all cut, lay the pieces out with the spine piece in the middle. Fold over the pieces like a book, with the tape on the outside. If the pieces make an even seal against each other, unfold the cover and run a strip of tape along the length of the spine. If they don't, take the tape off and rearrange the pieces until they fit together neatly. Before moving on, place the text block in the cover to make sure it fits, and that the edges are the length that you want them to be.

If everything looks good, move to the next step. Cut your cloth so that it is a couple inches wider than your cover on each side. The edges wont be visible, so it doesn't need to be exact. Lay your chipboard cover on newspaper, tape side up. Spray it evenly with the Spray Adhesive if you use the PVC, coat the cover in glue, and spread it out as thinly as possible with a brush or fingers and lay it on your fabric.

Press firmly, and turn over to cloth side to smooth out any wrinkles or bunches in the fabric. If you use the spray adhesive, have another piece of newspaper ready to cover the first as soon as you finish spraying, since it's VERY sticky and you don't want to lay your cover or the cloth on the gluey newspaper.

Next, you glue the edges of the cloth down. Start with the corners, using the PVC glue. Run a line of glue along each edge and spread it thinly with a brush or finger, and fold over the edges and press firmly. Try not to get any glue in the crease of the spine Give special attention to the corners, making sure they're fully glued down.

Optionally, you can cut little squares out of any extra chipboard and clip them to the corners with a binding clip as they dry. This isn't necessary, but will help the corners be as flat as possible. Don't leave the clips on for more than a few minutes, as they can leave dents in the cover. Once the text block and the cover have dried, trim the medical tape all the way down. Position the spine of the text block over the spine of the cover.

Close the cover to make sure the text block is exactly over the spine. Spread a thin layer of glue under the flaps of fabric on the text block. DO NOT put any glue between the spines. The text block needs to be able to flex when the book is opened, so you only want to glue the flaps to the chipboard.

Prop the text block up and let it dry. Cut the scrapbook paper to the same length as the pages in your text block. You shouldn't need to trim the width. Fold the paper in half with the pattern on the inside. Identify the side that will be glued to the chipboard, and spray it with the spray adhesive.

You can use a thin layer of PVC, but it makes the paper ripple when it dries. Press the crease of the paper right up to the corner of the text block and press down. Before glueing the other side to the text block, lay some newspaper over the side of the scrapbook paper you just glued. Then spray the other side and press it to the first page of the text block. Repeat for the back of the book. Once both sides are done, close the book.

If there are any gaps or ripples in the paper lining, smooth them out with the bone folder and close the book again. Huzzah, the last step! All that's left to do now is to stack your favorite heavy books on top of your journal, and let it dry for a couple hours!